Ireland
'99: Day Fifteen
Highlights:
Killarney National Park
Torc Waterfall and Tina Turner
Dinis Cottage
Meeting of the Waters, Take Two
Ring of Kerry Passes
Ogham Stone
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Day Fifteen --
September 10th, 1999
We awoke still not quite refreshed
and headed out on the Iveragh Peninsula and to tour a bit of the Ring of Kerry.
The Ring of Kerry is a circular route around the peninsula frequented by large
tour buses that left little more the an inch or two of road for oncoming cars,
making traveling particularly exciting.
Our first hope was to catch a ride
out to the Skellig Islands, but upon calling Joe Roddy, a sailor who will take
people out to the islands, all we received was Irish laughter: “Oh
no, no, nobody is going out to the Skelligs today”. We were able to get
on the list for tomorrow though.
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Torc Waterfall
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So we sat in the car in the town
of Killarney and fell asleep while trying to decide what to do for the day –
did I mention that we were both pretty exhausted? We decided to go out to
Killarney National Park and take a peek at its delights. I had some hopes for a
row out to some of the lakes’ islands, but we ended hiking a short way to the
Torc Waterfall.
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While at the waterfall, we met a
fellow named Michael from Tralee and his dog named Tina, who insisted on
carrying a stick with her everywhere – Michael said it gave her confidence.
Incidentally, Tina was named after Tina Turner; Michael seemed surprised that we
did not immediately see the resemblance. Anyway, Michael took us up a path
beyond the waterfall rather sprightly and chatted with us on a variety of
subjects. He promised a viewpoint that was spectacular (each time we stopped for
a breather, we were not sure if that was the view he referred to). Eventually,
he stopped climbing, but gave us instructions of how to continue on to the final
viewpoint. We said goodbye after I snapped a quick picture of he and Tina.
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Tina and Michael
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Jenn checking out
Michael's View
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We followed Michael’s
instructions and soon were granted with a lovely spot overlooking the lakes. It
was worth the hike. Jenn and I sat and rested and tried to figure out how much
hope for life and us the Ireland trip was infusing us with.
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Another Hike view
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As we hiked down, we met a gal from
New Zealand that I had met and chatted with earlier back in Donegal. It was the
third time this trip were we met someone more than once, separated by many miles
in between. In Doolin, we saw a couple from the US Midwest that we had stayed
with in Howth. And in the Kilkenny castle, we met a couple and child who we flew
over from London with. Small world, Ireland is!
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Look! I am in
Ireland!
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Dining at the Dinis
Cottage
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From the waterfall, we then
walked a few more miles to a 200 year old hunting lodge called Dinis Cottage,
where we ate lunch. We talked about the lack of variety in Irish food – the
same meals are served nearly everywhere. In the windows of the cottage where graffiti
engravings dating back to 1816! It was strange to see engravings that
read 2-5-96, and the 96 to me 1896.
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Right next to the cottage was yet
another Meeting of the Waters. This one, however, was much more pastoral than
the one we saw near Avoca at the beginning of the trip. Here, a river split and
simultaneously fed two lakes. One of those small things that I saw that day that
has stuck in my mind ever since was seeing the wind travel along the lake. You
could hear the winds coming down from the mountain and they would hit the still
surface of the lake nearly vertically, as you could see the slight ripples
emanating outward from a circle near the lake’s shore. They would then spread
out over the lake – it was quite a subtle, but beautiful display of nature’s
grace.
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The Meeting of the
Waters (The better one)
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View from Iveragh
Peninsula's Pass
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From the Killarney National
Park, we headed out onto the peninsula and romped around some of the mountain
passes. At one stop, we happened upon a fairytale horse that would lift his head
whenever I whistled to him to pose for my camera. I have two of the shots below,
but I am not sure which one is best.
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The perfect fantasy
horse
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The other horse
shot (doesn't it look like he should be paid for standing there?)
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Another view from
the pass
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One more..
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and with Tig...
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I had to take this
shot -- a bright red tractor driving down huge fields of green
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We ended
up staying the night halfway out on the peninsula at the Old Stone Forge
B&B. The name was cool and the outside attractive, but the rooms were rather
dilapidated. Before going to sleep, we headed out for a quick bite to eat and
found a small restaurant in a tiny town. We barely managed to get a table as all
of the locals had made reservations. It turned out to be one of the best meals
of the entire trip (I had Filet Mignon stuffed with mushroom!).
On the way back to the B&B, we
stopped and saw an Ogham stone on the side of the road – a very early method
of writing the roman alphabet based on simple lines etched into rock. We could
have had a very cool picture by using a flashlight to illuminate the rock, but
it was raining and we were both pretty tired. We headed home and sang the
Police’s Roxanne in the car.
Proceed to the next day, or
return to the Ireland '99 Main Page.